ROADTRIP FOR THE SOUTHWEST OF AUSTRALIA. STAGE 4: EYRE PENINSULA

We leave "finally" the long stretch of Nullarbor to enter the Eyre Peninsula over the next few days, in what is the fourth stage of our roadtrip through southwestern Australia by van. You can see the other stages in these links: stage 1 / stage 2 / stage 3. The Eyre Peninsula is an inverted triangle-shaped projection, with Port Lincoln at its lower vertex and with two roads through which we will go down and climb to explore its two coasts

At the moment these are the main data:

Day 12Haslam - Locks Well Beach

The first section would start a little before Haslam. We talk about Cradle, where the Nullarbor officially ends and where you have to spend the Quarentine control, which in our case was a quick review of the refrigerator. But here we spend about 6 in the afternoon and, although in South Australia it is two and a half hours less than in Western Australia and the sun sets much later, both the clock of our van and that of our body asks us to finish soon the day, which also what a day!

Little did we explore the initial part of the Eyre Peninsula, beyond an excursion to a free camping site, which we had to abort after traveling a couple of kilometers along a road of impossible potholes (22 km of road like this, with the clink of the Cutlery, dust and constant vibrations, we would go crazy!).

But karma behaved well with us and in the Haslam campsite where we would spend the night there were no envelopes to pay the 10AUS of the donation, and who are we to invent new payment rules? We waited toooooda one night and a few hours in the morning (lie, at 8 we were already driving with the legañas still stuck in the eyes) to appear someone to claim the envelope, because hey, we are honored!

The next day yes yes, We started to venture through this Eyre Peninsula which, at first glance, reminds us of the Otago Peninsula in New Zealand. A coast of beaches unfit for swimming (mostly), with low tide bays that show their least attractive part and dotted with fishing villages, some of which seems truly stagnant in the 50s. Few tourists beyond of a handful of backpackers vans and a few campers of Australian fishing enthusiasts. But what can we expect from a place that, as one of its main tourist attractions, is literally its tranquility.

To this we must add that the days are cloudy, with intermittent rain and some wind. Although we must thank the 34 degrees of the Nullarbor down to the most pleasant 22. The rush to travel these roads are much less and we decided to take a break and heed his recommendation: a few quiet days come to us fable.

Which does not mean that we continue visiting interesting places, our twelfth day of roadtrip through Australia, after escaping from the Haslam campsite, we start by having breakfast in the town of Streaky bay, famous for a record: the exact replica of one of the largest white sharks Fish by the hand of man, it seems that the largest fish with 24 kg fishing line (this for fishing geeks). He got caught in the 90s, measured more than 5 meters and weighed almost a ton and a half. Perhaps the most amazing of all is that it is exposed neither more nor less than in a half-hidden room inside a Shell gas station... Where by the way there are some curries with very good looks.

The next town that crosses the main road is Port Kenny, one of those who, as we anticipate, seems to have stood still in the 50s: a post office building with rusty doors, a motel that gives miedito, some wooden houses with skipped paint, and a guy coming out from the bar with a cowboy hat greeting you raising only one end of the mustache ...

Later we stopped in the town of Venus Bay, famous for its viewpoints over the cliffs. They really impress, perhaps not as much as we saw the day before, but your legs loosen a little at each step towards the abyss. They say that in this area it is relatively easy to see dolphins, we stay for a while looking at the horizon, trying to distinguish the points where the waves break with the dolphins fins, but nothing. After this stop, we had marked another that should be the best of the day, the Talia Caves (Woolshed Cave and The Tub), but the road didn't convince us and we turned ...

Before arriving at Elliston there is a loop called the Great Ocean Drive (his real name is Clifftop Dr), a dirt road that climbs up the slopes of the hill in front of the Waterloo Bay. 12 km with several viewpoints, some of them very cool and with surprise: what do they do 4 moáis here? Who knows, the image is at least funny. To good surprise when, after taking the relevant photos we return to the van, we turn on the radio and a lady comes out speaking in Italian! A station in southern Australia by and for Italian speakers! Australia, how we didn't meet you before!

In Elliston We stopped looking for a restaurant, when asking for one in the information office they laughed out saying that we would be very lucky to find a restaurant in a town like that, well planned, the very nice man. He sent us to the roadhouse at the entrance of the town where, at ease, we ate a fish and chips and a plate of seafood frying, taking advantage of the fact that we are in an area famous for its fish and shellfish (they were actually frozen, but we warned before).

On many occasions during the trip the best is always arriving at the end of the day, today would not be an exception. Looking for a place to park and spend the night (and which could be accessed by a paved road, is it so much to ask?), We arrived at Well Beach Locks. And we freaked out! It did not matter if it was sparkling, that the sea was raging and that they had just put a sign of prohibited camping, the place is simply spectacular! Behind a wooden walkway a viewpoint hangs over the cliff that divides the coast in two: on the left an inaccessible beach, great for seagulls to take their good naps. On the right a long orange sand beach which is accessed by a staircase, but be careful, in which you should not bathe under any circumstances. And in front of you, just the ocean.

By the way, the forbidden camping sign is in the parking lot below, a little higher up there is another where it is allowed. The views are not the same, but it is still a good place.

Day 13Locks Well Beach - Port Lincoln

The day got cloudy (again), but our desire to continue exploring the Eyre Peninsula did not decline. Also finding a place to spend last night like Locks Well Beach was a complete rush! We left southbound and the first stop was theLake Hamilton Eating House, an old service area built in 1857 that fed the weary travelers on their westbound journeys. Now we find it restored as it would be in those years.

Near her there is a turnoff to the right that reaches theCummings Monument, in honor of Leo Cummings, one of the first inhabitants of this region. They built his memorial when he died in the wreck of his crayfish fishing boat on these steep coasts. We do not say that it is not important, but the really interesting thing about this place are the views of the cliffs, if you also look out with the history of the wreck in mind, it still cherishes more.

One of the most renowned villages on the Eyre Peninsula is Coffin bay, has earned a reputation for its flagship product: oysters, known worldwide (really? will be for those who eat oysters frequently). If your plans include going on an excursion along the coast by boat, this is a good place, also one that takes you to visit the oyster farms, with tasting included. If not, you can also travel part or all of the Oyster Walk (8 km) that passes through the most important attractions of the town, its beach and port from where you can see the large oyster platforms, and parks.

If you have more desire to explore, very close is the Coffin Bay National Park ($ 10 per car), the northern part is only accessible in 4 × 4, but the south, the Point Avoid area, Almonta Beach, Golden Island Lookout and Yangie Bay, can be visited by conventional car. We didn't go, so we wouldn't know how to tell you, but the photos are cool!

We arrived to Port lincoln, the most important city of the Eyre Peninsula and we stayed in thePort Lincoln YHA. We had not tried the oysters, what to say about the crayfish ... but in this great hostel we would be waiting for a super seafood paella (and chorizo, yes, seafood and chorizo!). Rob and Deb are in charge of the hostel and occasionally prepare the house specialty. So, if you are passing through here do not even think about forgetting this stop! The hostel is also super super cool, one of the best we have seen so far in Australia.

• Hostel website.
• Prices: from $ 27 a night per person.
• Location: 24-26 London St, Port Lincoln.

Day 14Port Lincoln - Port Pirie

Port lincoln It is famous for dives with white sharks. From here ships leave daily, provided with those cages that you will have seen in documentaries of the 2, where the bravest ones get in, face to face, with a gigantic white shark. It is also considered the Australian seafood capital. It has a few interesting museums and several viewpoints, such as the Winter Hill lookout over the entire city.

A plan that seems interesting is to travel the Whalers way. To do this you will first have to pay the entrance fee of $ 30 at the Visitor Center in Port Lincoln, as it goes through private land, but for what we have read it is worth it. What we do not know is the state of the road… In its 14 km you pass through cliffs, bays, beaches, gigantic fissures such as the Theakestone crack and natural pools separated from the ocean by a rock wall, as well as emus and kangaroos in freedom .

If you look over a map, the other overhang that encloses Boston Bay and makes this area one of the largest natural harbors in the world, is theLincoln National Park ($ 11 per car), which should also have some interesting things to visit (we didn't go).

On the way is theMikkira Station, apparently the only site with free koalas in and around Port Lincoln. We believe that before the visit was free, now the price is $ 15 per vehicle, however it may be a good option if what you are looking for is a camping for the night, the price is $ 25 for the van. It also has its history, it was one of the first areas where European settlers settled.

The journey through the east of the Eyre Peninsula We were not as attractive as the other side, a coastline dotted by small coastal towns, each with its dock, low houses of different colors, little activity in general. So we took the opportunity to make a few kilometers, with the intention of reaching as far as possible but without waiting much for this day ...

Error ... One of the last stops we made inWhyalla, some sandwichitos, a little sunscreen and enjoy the port. Actually we were for a reason: Lety who is a beast, I had just read in the app that sometimes some dolphins can be seen here. We lost nothing by approaching and watching ... The sandwich was already running out, the water was heating up and our hope was fading away ... until we saw in the distance at the entrance of the port, as a small fishing boat approached, followed by two dolphins! They arrived at the jetty itself and right there we could see them, a short meter away from us! We weren't expecting anything of the day and it turned out to be one of the most exciting of the entire trip!

Still with the excitement in the body we get toPort PirieIt was 8 pm and the temperature exceeded 30 degrees. We were camped in a street on the periphery and the intention was to stay there. It was 10 o'clock and the temperature was still at 30, 11 o'clock and it didn't go down one degree ... It's the first time we had this heat in the van and sleeping was practically impossible, so we ended up at the cheapest (and shabby) Caravan Park We found, at least we could plug in the power and, after three hours of problems with the air conditioning, at 2 in the morning we ended the day.

Day 15Port Pirie - Adelaide

We returned to the road the next morning something sobaos, if not how would you call someone who is riding next to a train for several km and not even notice! We had to carry the same speed because we did not even realize that a piece of train was making our way, a few meters to our left. The train in question was the legendary The Ghan, which travels between Adelaide and Darwin in 4 days, crossing the entire interior of the country. Its original name was the Afghan Express and its symbol is the camel, animal thanks to which roads could be opened towards the center of the country more than 150 years ago.

They are 2,979 km, although it is not the longest in Australia, this honor has the Indian pacific from Sydney to Perth which, with 4,352km km, becomes the second longest route in the world. There is nothing! Traveling by train these long distances in Australia has ceased to be for those who visit their distant relatives, now it is a tourist attraction and a very romantic (but quite expensive) way to travel the country.

Past Snowtown (it's a joke, isn't it?) We were hoping to find a big pink lake, actually what we saw was a big lake, yes, but very little pink. Is he Bumbunga Lake, and deserves a stop to at least meet his particular "lake monster".

The day continued with more attempts of pink lakes without success, until arriving at Adelaide, the end of another new stage of our road trip through the southwest of Australia and where we would spend two nights.

→ More information about the Eyre Peninsula

Video: CROSSING THE NULLARBOR. ROAD TRIP AUSTRALIA EP. 3. EPIC CAMPS. ADVENTURE. REMOTE TRAVEL. (April 2024).